The Taj Mahal is actually worth the hassle of Agra. That is to say, it is the most beautiful building I've ever seen. I can hardly believe that there was a time when people went to work every day to build this thing. Of course, now people come to work every day and try to restore it. It's heartbreaking to see the portions they haven't gotten to yet - pieces missing, graffiti, etc - but, for once, I wasn't that annoyed to visit a monument and find sections obscured by scaffolding.

As big a draw as the Taj is, I have actually managed to accomplish a few other things since my last update. In reverse order, I day-tripped to Fatehpur Sikri, turned 27, braved Jaipur's GPO (I sent everything sea mail so I'll be state-side before my package...), shopped the bazaars of the pink city, tried to achieve some calm in Pushkar, and toured the fort at Jodhpur (as promised). Diana suggested I post a photo of myself so that (to the left) is me in the teal t-shirt as reflected in a giant silver vessel housed in the City Palace at Jaipur. I think it's my best self portrait yet - it's very difficult to hold the camera steady and smile at the same time. Personally, I wasn't too thrilled by the palace at Jaipur, but I'm a bit spoiled having been to Udaipur and Mysore previously. The best thing about Jaipur is the shopping - the old city is on a grid and the sidewalks are mostly covered making it very easy to wonder around buying even in the blazing Rajasthan heat. And everything is so ...shiny.

Not that there isn't good shopping to be had in Jodhpur, it's just that the old city is laid out like the web of a spider on crystal meth. I had to use a compass to find my way out. The trek up to the fort included a tinware market and several sari shops, the journey out - bangles, tie dye and sweets. I could never recreate either trip - you'll have to find your own way. Or take a rickshaw like a sensible person.

Tomorrow I leave bustling Agra for New Delhi, my last long journey bus trip in India. I actually already feel relief at the prospect of never traveling five hours by bus through India again. If I learned anything on this trip, it's take the train (book ahead).