The Taj Mahal is actually worth the hassle of Agra. That is to say, it is the most beautiful building I've ever seen. I can hardly believe that there was a time when people went to work every day to build this thing. Of course, now people come to work every day and try to restore it. It's heartbreaking to see the portions they haven't gotten to yet - pieces missing, graffiti, etc - but, for once, I wasn't that annoyed to visit a monument and find sections obscured by scaffolding.

As big a draw as the Taj is, I have actually managed to accomplish a few other things since my last update. In reverse order, I day-tripped to Fatehpur Sikri, turned 27, braved Jaipur's GPO (I sent everything sea mail so I'll be state-side before my package...), shopped the bazaars of the pink city, tried to achieve some calm in Pushkar, and toured the fort at Jodhpur (as promised). Diana suggested I post a photo of myself so that (to the left) is me in the teal t-shirt as reflected in a giant silver vessel housed in the City Palace at Jaipur. I think it's my best self portrait yet - it's very difficult to hold the camera steady and smile at the same time. Personally, I wasn't too thrilled by the palace at Jaipur, but I'm a bit spoiled having been to Udaipur and Mysore previously. The best thing about Jaipur is the shopping - the old city is on a grid and the sidewalks are mostly covered making it very easy to wonder around buying even in the blazing Rajasthan heat. And everything is so ...shiny.

Not that there isn't good shopping to be had in Jodhpur, it's just that the old city is laid out like the web of a spider on crystal meth. I had to use a compass to find my way out. The trek up to the fort included a tinware market and several sari shops, the journey out - bangles, tie dye and sweets. I could never recreate either trip - you'll have to find your own way. Or take a rickshaw like a sensible person.

Tomorrow I leave bustling Agra for New Delhi, my last long journey bus trip in India. I actually already feel relief at the prospect of never traveling five hours by bus through India again. If I learned anything on this trip, it's take the train (book ahead).

Live from the Land of Kings

As of today I have been in Rajasthan a week and, so far, have seen two palaces, spent 10 hours in state buses and discovered that A/C really is all it's cracked up to be. Maybe it was a bit dense of me, but I didn't realize Udaipur is such a tourist spot. In that way it's a bit like Hampi - guesthouses with rooftop restaurants just everywhere (near the lake), a souvenir shop gauntlet, a local population that probably wishes we and our cameras and baggy pants would all just go home and stop driving up prices. The difference of course is the scenery - Udaipur boasts three major palaces/forts and a set of lakes in among its hills. The picture above shows about half of the city palace at sunset - I find a computer with Photoshop and I'll splice together the panorama. It really is that big.

From Udaipur I caught a (bumpy, dusty, road construction-y, eight hour) bus to Jodhpur - I can see the Meherangarh complex (left) from the roof of my hotel but it's just not the same as standing next to it. That happens to be tomorrow's mission. Tonight's is a proper Rajasthani meal and a saffron lassi. Wish me luck.

I don't know were the line is for North India - but I've got to be close. Right now I'm in Ahmedabad, where the rickshaws run on compressed natural gas and the locals will actually stop and help you cross the madly congested streets. My hotel offers TV, a daily paper and room service - I'm a bit ashamed to admit I've spent a good part of my four days here catching up on the news and solving crossword puzzles. My only serious "touristing" so far was a trip to the City Museum which traces the glories of Ahmedabad, mostly through it's architecture and artists. The lower floor has a kite museum (in January Ahmedabad hosts a very popular kite festival). My two weeks in Goa have made me lazy.

My one day tour of Mumbai went well, though I did end up wishing I'd stayed an extra day (if only to shower between incident-free overnight train journeys). Most of the day I wandered through the Fort-Churchgate area, then out to Colaba for the afternoon. Having seen a few other cities in India, I was very surprised by how clean and orderly Mumbai is. Also, by the number of high-end shoe shops... I always wondered where one buys the shoes featured in Cosmo and now, I know. After a few hours parked in a cafe reading and drinking iced tea (that is a new experience for me, not a waste of daylight), I walked along the bay up to Chowpatty beach. I was a bit to early for the real Mumbai at night experience (I did have a train to catch) but there was a serious indication of proper nightlife, at least near the beach. And don't think the kids get left out - there's a bouncy castle. In case my dorkiness is at all in question, I also made time to visit the Monetary Museum and learn about the history of currency and banking in India. I spent so long reading through the displays someone actually came in to check on me.

Hope you all are enjoying the spring. Cheers! Claire